Carinena is a large, old town, famous for its wine bodegas. Out on the main road behind the church (cross the bridge onto the carretera and turn left), the Bodega Morte (daily 8am-8pm; free) welcome visitors to sample its wines, and buy bottles, or fill their own for next to nothind from the huge barrels. If you want to stay – and Cariñena, with its open-air swimming, pool, is a quiet alternative to Zaragoza- you’ll find good rooms at the Hostal Iliturgis on the Plaza Ramon near the church 976 620 492, and Hotel Carinena 976 620 837, on the main Zaragoza road, near the wine bodegas. It has a remarkable Baroque church, a lovely Town Hall and a Saturday market.