Pyrenees Guide

15km to the southeast of Cantavieja, and another fine walk along a rough country road, is La Iglesuela del Cid. The village’s name bears witness to the exploits of El Cid Campeador, who came charging through the Maestrazgo in his fight against the Infidel. Its ochre-red, dry-stone walls, ubiquitous coats of arms and stream flowing right through the centre are striking enough in this remote countryside, though these features aside, it’s a shabby sort of place. There is, however, a characterful fonda. Casa Amada t & f + 34 964 443 373, which offers good and substantial country cooking, and a small summer-only turismo (tourist office) inside the Ayuntamiento (summer Tues-Sun 11am-2pm & 4-8pm; winter Mon-Fri 10am-2pm + 34  964 443 325).