Pyrenees Guide

The crenellated walls climbing above the remote medieval town of Albarracin, 38km west of Teruel, dramatically announce its proximity as you approach. Built on a steep, rocky height carved out by a meander of the Rio Guadalaviar, Albarracin was, from 1012 to 1104, the seat of a tiny Islamic state ruled by a Berber dynasty called the Banu Razin. From 1170 to 1285, it was an independent Christian kingdom under the Azagra family, sandwiched between Castile and Aragon. With its tall, aged buildings clinging to steep hillsides in an isolated setting, this is the most impressive of all Aragon’s ancient hill towns, even if tourists seem to outnumber locals at times. Albarracin’s cool, narrow streets are even today in the best tradition of the Arab medina, with the centuries-old buildings leaning and bulging alarmingly over them.

The cathedral (admission free; open 10,30am-2pm & 4pm-6pm daily; until 8pm in Aug), with its cupola typical of the Spanish Levant, has an elaborate gilded altarpiece. The Palacio Episcopal (Bishop’s Palace), to which it’s connected, houses the Museo Diocesano (Diocesan Museum; guided tour €1,80),which has 16th-century paintings, tapestries, and religious, objets d’art. Admission is by guided tour only and the museum is open the same hours as the cathedral.

The castle (closed), near the southern end of town, and the Torre del Andador (Walkway Tower), at the top of the walls at the north end of town, both date from the 9th century, when Albarracin was already an important Muslim military post. Walk up to the Torre del Andador for fine panoramas, then just enjoy exploring the streets. Nearly every brick, stone, slab of concrete ands slap of mortar in the place is in some earthy shade of red or pink, making for wonderful plays of colour, particularly in the evening.

Information & Transportation:

The tourist office (978 71 02 51; Calle Diputacion 4; open 9,30am-2,30pm & 5pm-7pm Mon, 9,30-2,30pm & 4pm-7pm Tues-Fri, 10am-2pm & 4pm- 7pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) is just off Plaza Mayor. You’ll find the post office and a couple of banks with ATMs on or just off Plaza Mayor.

Daily except Sunday and holidays, Auto-transportes Teruel buses leave from Teruel for Albarracin (€ 1,80 one hour) at 3,30pm and from Albarracin for Teruel at 9am.